How important is it to cleanse?
It is so important and we say this is a none negotiable step, as it is one of the most important basic and essential steps in our skincare routine. Skin is constantly exposed to environmental pollutants, makeup, natural oils, and dead surface skin cells that build up on the skin, sweat and external aggressors. Daily facial cleansing washes away the days grime, excess oil, pollution, removes make up and dead skin cells of the face.
Benefits of cleansing with the correct cleanser?
If the skin is not cleansed properly, dirt, excess oil and pollution accumulate on the surface of the skin contributing to breakouts, dehydration, and ageing.
Cleansing is so beneficial in several ways as it will help to maintain a clear skin, boost hydration by supporting the pH levels of the skin, enabling sufficient water and product retention which increases the effectiveness and absorption of other skincare products that follow on from this basic first step.
Clean face = effective skincare regime
So many different types of cleansers, how do I choose one?
There is a vast number of different types of cleansers on the market from foams, gels, oils, balms, creams and milk, micellar water, wipes, clay, powders, bar soaps etc. It is recognised and recommended that you choose your cleanser on your skin type be it normal, oily, dry, sensitive, combination. Special skin conditions (acne, eczema, rosacea) we recommend that you seek professional guidance.
As a general guide:
- Cleansing balm – All skin types, particularly dry and sensitive
- Gel Cleanser – Normal, oily and combination
- Cream & Milk Cleansers – All skin types, particularly dry and sensitive
- Cleansing Oil – Most skin types especially make up lovers
- Foam Cleanser – Oily, combination and acne-prone
- Bar Soaps – None. We do not recommend using soap.
- Facial wipes -None. We do not recommend the use of facial wipes.
How are cleansers made?
All types of cleansers use the same two categories of ingredients surfactants and emollients & humectants. Surfactants are ingredients that help water mix with oil and dirt so they can be rinsed away and vary in intensity from gentle to harsher components. Emollients & humectants are moisturisers that are added to reduce the harshness of the surfactants (if they were too gentle, they would not cleanse the skin). The difference in cleansers is the types of surfactants and emollients used and the ratio, so it is all about finding and using the right formulations.
What Ingredients do I look for?
This will depend on your skin type and skin conditions that you may need to treat. Yet as a general guide the best ingredients are:
- Ceramides – which are lipids or fats as they support and protect the skin barrier, hydrate the skin by locking in moisture, great for all skin types particularly dry and sensitive skin
- Glycerin – a natural occurring compound in the body and in topical skincare is derived from plants, it attracts moisture and is a wonderful hydrator keeping skin soft, supple, and hydrated
- Salicylic Acid – a great active particularly for oily skin as it decreases oil and unclogs pores.
- Zeolite – a mineral that is a combination of volcanic lava and either freshwater or seawater. Zeolite is negatively charged, allowing it to “attract” toxins and other harmful pollutants in the body that are positively charged
- Glycolic Acid – a great exfoliator gently lifting of dead skin cells to reveal newer, fresher smoother skin. Not suitable for sensitive/rosacea type skins
Active ingredients in cleansers; do they work?
Are active ingredients in our cleansers really doing anything when we’re rinsing them off within seconds? Active ingredients found in many cleansers typically work soon after application and contain higher concentrations to ensure they remain effective during the little time they stay on the skin. If active ingredients are found in ‘wash-off ‘products like a cleanser, then it needs to be able to do its job within seconds like salicylic acid and glycolic acid.
To make the most of your cleanser, we recommended massaging your cleansers into our skin for 60 seconds to allow the products to penetrate the surface before washing them off.
Sometimes there are ingredients that just work better when they’re not in a cleanser. It is unclear whether cleansers that contain ingredients like vitamin C or retinol truly offer any beneficial effects on the skin. For these ingredients to be effective, there needs to be extended contact with the skin and is the opinion of many skin specialists.
What ingredients do I avoid and why?
- Phthalates: Chemical used to increase flexibility and strength of plastics and helps products stick to the skin usually found in fragrance oils and can mimic estrogen
- Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) / Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES): Detergent that makes product foam and lather are known to cause skin irritation and trigger allergies
- Propylene glycol & Butylene Glycol:Gaseous hydrocarbons which in liquid state act as surfactant, which penetrates the skin quickly and can weaken protein and cellular structure
- Triclosan: A synthetic antibacterial agent that may disrupt thyroid function and can degrade into a form of dioxin and chemical linked to a broad range of toxicities
- DEA (diethanolamine) MEA (monoethanolamine) & TEA (triethanolamine): Clear, colourless, viscous liquids with ammonia-like odours
- Aluminium: Toxic metal that can have oestrogen-like effects in our system
- Mineral oil: Petroleum by product that coats the skin like plastic, clogging its pores, it interferes with skin’s ability to eliminate toxins, increasing likelihood of acne and other skin disorders
- Formaldehyde: It is a known carcinogen and is linked to asthma, neurotoxicity and developmental toxicity
- Synthetic Fragrances: Companies do not have to disclose what ingredients are inside and usually they are made up of hundreds of different ingredients not listed on the label, so you are never sure what you are being exposed to
- Toluene: Also known as BHT (butylated Hydroxytoluene) it comes from petroleum or coal tar sources and are likely carcinogens and hormone disruptors
This list is to highlight and help educate us all on the number of toxic burdens we may expose ourselves to daily and the need to not overload our bodies with unnecessary chemicals.
How often should I cleanse in a day?
In general, you should be cleansing your face at least twice a day. You should wash your face both morning and night because the skin creates sebum and oil throughout the day.
Do you recommend a double cleanse?
If you are going to double cleanse, then incorporate it into your evening skincare routine only. If you are looking for a deep clean then double cleanse, you may want to use the same cleanser which is usual advice or use two different types. One of the cleansers maybe used for the purpose of removing your makeup as the first pass (cleansing oil or balm) and then following with a deep cleanse to remove sweat, bacteria, and dead skin cells. Your second cleanser should give you a deeper more thorough cleanse without stripping the skin, suggest cleansing gels, foams, milk, or lotion.
Tips:
Know your skin type and any skin conditions that you may need treating such as acne……, be gentle and never over strip the skin of oils and impair the skin barrier, become ingredient savvy.
Medifine have a wide selection of effective cleansers for different skin types and conditions and are here to advise and support you.